| Fences, whether wood, chain-link, plastic
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| | the length of each pole in the
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| or steel are installed for any number of
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| | ground.What I like to do is put in my
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| reasons. The primary reason, and most
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| | corner posts first and use them as a
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| will agree,is for privacy, whereby
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| | guide to get all the subsequent posts to
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| segregating a section of the yard to keep
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| | line up staright. Set the corner posts
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| your business away from public eye.
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| | where you want them, securing the posts
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| Another reason, but no less important, is
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| | by adding a bag of fast-setting concrete
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| to keep children or pets in the confines
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| | to each hole. Simply add a gallon of
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| of your property. Whatever the purpose a
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| | water and allow the mixture to set up; it
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| well placed fence only enhances the look
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| | will generally harden in less than an
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| of your property and adds to the value of
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| | hour. Once a post is placed in the hole,
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| the home if you decide to sell at a later
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| | check to see if it's plumb and adjust as
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| date.Before taking on any major job I've
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| | necessary. Hold in place by nailing scrap
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| learned to ask myself a few questions. Do
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| | wood to the post to stake it. Once the
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| I have the confidence to take on the job?
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| | cement has set tie a piece of shot line
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| Do I have the right tools? Am I
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| | between the corner posts as tightly as
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| physically capable? Do I have to get
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| | possible. This is your plumb line for
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| permission? It's not a knock on yourself
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| | setting up the rest of the posts in
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| to ask for help. I've swallowed my pride
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| | straight line.When placing the top rail,
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| a few times, asked for help, and in doing
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| | keep in mind that a good typical height
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| so saved myself alot of frustration and
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| | is between 58 and 66 inches from the
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| money.I suggest you visit or call your
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| | ground. The middle and lower rails should
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| local code or permitting office to see
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| | be spaced evenly below. The rail length
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| whether you have to pull a permit. Once
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| | is determined by measuring from the
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| you've determined whether it's okay to
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| | center of one post to the center point of
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| build your fence, make sure you're
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| | the next. Use two 10-penny nails to
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| building it on your own property. If you
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| | fasten the end of each rail to each post,
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| do not know your property measurements,
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| | making sure that all the rails are on the
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| check with the local jurisdiction's
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| | same horizontal plane and the same
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| department that keeps your tax plat
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| | distance from the ground.To speed up the
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| records or hire a surveyor. Mark the
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| | building process, make sure all the rails
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| corners with flags and show your lines
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| | are in position before starting to attach
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| clearly with paint or stakes and string
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| | the pickets. Place a picket on the first
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| to define your boundaries.Installing the
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| | post, with the bottom approximately 1
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| fenceThere are many different material
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| | inch above the ground. Make sure it's
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| options when it comes to fencing, from
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| | plumb, then nail it in place.Repeat the
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| wood to metal to plastic. For this
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| | process with a a picket on the next post,
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| example we'll discuss the use of
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| | but only nail it in place with one or two
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| pressure-treated wood since it offers
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| | nails. Then add a nail to the top of each
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| long-term endurance. Don't worry too much
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| | picket and run a string between them,
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| about figuring out how much material
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| | placing it a half-inch above the top of
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| you'll need. Just take the exact
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| | the picket. The top of each picket should
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| dimensions of your property to the local
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| | then be positioned a half-inch below the
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| fencing distributors. They will be able
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| | string. This allows the pickets to
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| to figure out the cost.Tools needed:
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| | gradually follow the contour of the yard.
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| Air gun nailer (makes the job go quicker
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| | Tip: To ensure a uniform space between
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| unless you're REALLY into swinging a
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| | your pickets, cut a small piece of one
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| hammer)
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| | picket to use as a spacer as you work
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| Safety glasses
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| | your way along the rails. (Be sure to
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| Post hole digger (if you're ok with
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| | keep placing pickets with the tops a
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| blisters) or a power auger (Make sure
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| | half-inch below the string line.)While
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| someone instructs you on how to use the
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| | holding each picket in place next to the
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| tool, and carefully follow all safety
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| | spacer, secure it with a single nail
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| precautions. These mechanical beasts
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| | right in the center. This will allow some
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| don't know the difference between your
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| | leeway for aligning it later. Work your
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| foot and the ground when they start
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| | way around the perimter until each picket
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| digging)
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| | is secured with a single center nail.Now
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| Small sledge hammer
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| | it's time to plumb the pickets. Hold your
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| Shot line
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| | level alongside and on top of each one to
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| Type N quick drying cementRegardless of
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| | check that it's plumb. Once it's
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| the type of wood you use, the nails
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| | perfectly postioned, get the nail gun and
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| should last as long as the fence, so
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| | add two nails to the top end (for a total
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| choose galvanized nails if at all
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| | of three, since the first one was put in
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| possible.The number and placement of the
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| | earlier to hold the piece in place), then
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| posts you use will be determined by the
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| | secure it with three at the bottom end.
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| distance of your fence. A good rule of
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| | Repeat the process all the way down the
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| thumb is to space them between 6 to 8
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| | line, then go to the other side and
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| feet apart. Once you've determined post
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| | repeat again.If you follow all the steps
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| placement, you're ready to dig your
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| | correctly you should end up with a fence
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| holes. The general guideline for setting
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| | that runs straight on all sides, and best
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| posts is to place at least one-third of
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| | all adds to the curb appeal of your home.
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